To file a burglary insurance claim on a homeowners policy, call the police first and get an incident report, notify your insurer promptly, preserve the scene until an adjuster inspects it, document every stolen and damaged item with proof of ownership and value, and submit a sworn Proof of Loss within your policy’s deadline. The payout depends on your personal property limit, any sub-limits on categories like jewelry or electronics, your deductible, and whether your policy pays actual cash value or replacement cost.
The First Few Hours
Call the police before you touch anything. The incident report is the single most important document in your claim file. Insurers treat it as baseline proof that a crime actually occurred, and without one, most carriers won’t process the claim at all. Ask the responding officer for the report number and the name of the investigating detective if one is assigned.
Do not clean up, sweep glass, or repair kicked-in doors until the adjuster has seen the scene. The broken lock, the pry marks on a window frame, the ransacked drawers all tell the story of how the intruder got in and what they disturbed. Boarding up a window or securing a door to prevent further damage is fine and actually expected. Just don’t restore anything to its original condition yet.
Notify your insurance company as soon as you’ve called police. Many policies use vague language like “prompt notice” rather than a hard deadline, but some require notification within 30 to 90 days. Check your policy’s “Duties After Loss” section for the exact window. Calling sooner always works in your favor; delays give adjusters a reason to scrutinize the claim more heavily.
If you discover additional missing items in the days after the initial report, contact the investigating precinct and ask about adding them to the existing case file. That updated report supports the additions you’ll make to your insurance inventory.
What’s Actually Covered
A standard HO-3 homeowners policy covers both stolen belongings and the physical damage the burglar caused getting in, under two separate parts of the policy. Stolen and damaged personal property (electronics, clothing, furniture, tools) falls under personal property coverage, often called Coverage C. Structural damage to the home itself (a smashed door frame, broken window, damaged lock) falls under dwelling coverage, Coverage A. Each has its own limit, and both apply to a single burglary.
Personal property coverage typically runs 50 to 70 percent of your dwelling coverage. It also extends to belongings stolen away from home, but at a reduced limit: roughly 10 percent of the total personal property limit. On a $150,000 personal property limit, that caps off-premises theft around $15,000.
Standard policies cover theft, but they generally exclude “mysterious disappearance.” If a piece of jewelry simply vanishes with no evidence of a crime, the insurer will argue it wasn’t stolen. You need some evidence that a theft occurred, whether that’s a police report, signs of forced entry, or witness accounts.
Sub-Limits on High-Value Categories
Even if your overall personal property coverage is generous, your policy almost certainly caps what it will pay for specific categories. These sub-limits catch people off guard after a burglary. Common caps on standard policies:
- Jewelry, watches, and precious stones: $1,500 for theft
- Firearms and related equipment: $2,500
- Silverware, goldware, and pewterware: $2,500
- Electronics and computers: $1,000
If a burglar steals a $6,000 engagement ring, a standard policy pays $1,500 at most, regardless of your overall coverage amount. The only way around sub-limits is to arrange additional coverage (a scheduled personal property endorsement or a blanket endorsement for a category) before the loss. If you didn’t do that, the sub-limit controls what you can collect now.
Documenting the Loss
The strength of your claim comes down to documentation. Insurers don’t take your word for it. They need evidence that you owned the items, what they were worth, and that they’re actually gone.
Build a complete inventory of everything stolen or damaged. For each item, note the brand, model, approximate age, and what you paid. Back it up with whatever proof of ownership you have: receipts, credit card statements, warranty cards, product registration emails, or photos showing the item in your home. Pre-loss photos and videos of rooms are powerful evidence. If you don’t have them for this claim, start taking them for the future.
Don’t overlook structural damage. Photograph every point of entry the burglar used: the broken window, damaged door frame, compromised lock. Get repair estimates from contractors. Structural repairs fall under dwelling coverage and are processed alongside the personal property claim, but they’re easy to forget when you’re focused on what was taken.
The Proof of Loss Form
Your insurer will likely require a sworn Proof of Loss, a notarized document in which you formally state exactly what was lost and how much you’re claiming. This isn’t optional paperwork. It’s a legal statement made under oath, and inaccuracies can derail the entire claim.
Provide serial numbers and model numbers wherever possible. List the date and time you discovered the loss. Disclose whether any other insurance policies might cover the same property; failing to mention a secondary policy creates exactly the kind of discrepancy that triggers deeper scrutiny. Most policies give you 60 days after the insurer requests the form to submit it, though this varies. Missing the deadline gives the carrier grounds to deny the claim.
The fraud warning printed on most Proof of Loss forms isn’t boilerplate. Knowingly overstating the value of stolen items or claiming things that weren’t actually taken is insurance fraud, prosecuted as a felony in every state. Investigators cross-reference claims against databases of prior filings, purchase histories, and public records. Padding a claim is never worth the risk.
Submitting the Claim Package
Most carriers accept claims through their mobile app or online portal, which generates an instant confirmation with a claim number. If you submit by mail, use certified mail with return receipt so you have proof of the submission date. That claim number becomes your reference for every phone call, email, and follow-up.
After the insurer receives your claim, it must acknowledge receipt within a set timeframe. The NAIC model regulation that most states follow requires acknowledgment within 15 days of notification. The insurer then has 21 days after receiving your completed Proof of Loss to accept or deny the claim, or to notify you in writing that it needs more time and explain why.1National Association of Insurance Commissioners. Unfair Property/Casualty Claims Settlement Practices Model Regulation If the investigation remains open, the insurer must send you a status update every 45 days. These are regulatory requirements, not courtesies.
What the Adjuster Will Check
Once your claim is registered, an adjuster schedules a site visit to inspect the property and interview you. The adjuster works for the insurance company, not for you. Their job is to verify that the loss happened, that it’s covered under your policy, and that the amount you’re claiming is reasonable. Expect them to:
- Examine points of entry for physical evidence of forced entry, such as tool marks on window frames, damage to door locks, or broken glass. Some policies require visible signs of forced entry for burglary coverage to apply.
- Compare your inventory to the space, mentally mapping whether the items you listed could reasonably have been in the rooms described.
- Take a recorded statement walking through the timeline: when you left, when you returned, what you noticed first. Be straightforward and consistent. Contradictions between your written claim and your verbal account are the fastest way to get flagged.
Certain patterns cause a routine claim to land on the desk of a Special Investigation Unit. Filing shortly after upgrading a policy, claiming items whose value exceeds what your income would support, a history of similar claims, no evidence of forced entry, or recent financial distress can all trigger a closer look. An SIU referral doesn’t mean the insurer thinks you’re lying. Cooperate fully, provide whatever documentation they request, and don’t embellish.
How the Payout Is Calculated
The dollar amount you receive depends on which valuation method your policy uses. This is one of the most consequential details in your coverage, and most people don’t think about it until a claim forces the question.
Actual Cash Value (ACV) pays what the item was worth at the moment it was stolen, factoring in depreciation. A laptop you bought three years ago for $1,200 might have an ACV of $400. ACV policies cost less in premium but leave you covering the gap between the depreciated value and what it costs to replace the item today.2National Association of Insurance Commissioners. What’s the Difference Between Actual Cash Value Coverage and Replacement Cost Coverage
Replacement Cost Value (RCV) pays what it costs to buy a new, comparable item at today’s prices. That same three-year-old laptop gets replaced at its current retail price.2National Association of Insurance Commissioners. What’s the Difference Between Actual Cash Value Coverage and Replacement Cost Coverage Here’s the part that surprises most people: even with an RCV policy, the insurer doesn’t write you a check for the full replacement cost upfront. The initial payment covers only the depreciated (ACV) amount. You then buy the replacement, submit the receipt, and the insurer sends a second check covering the difference. If you never replace the item, you’re stuck with the depreciated amount.
Every payout is reduced by your deductible, the amount you agreed to absorb when you bought the policy. Most homeowners policies start with a minimum deductible of $500 or $1,000, though many policyholders choose higher deductibles to lower premiums.3Insurance Information Institute. Understanding Your Insurance Deductibles On a $5,000 claim with a $1,000 deductible, you receive $4,000.
If the Offer Comes In Too Low
Insurance adjusters undervalue claims constantly. It’s not always bad faith. Sometimes the adjuster uses outdated pricing, miscalculates depreciation, or misses items on your inventory. The first offer is rarely the best one, and you have several options.
Start with the adjuster. Present comparable retail prices for each disputed item, printed from current retailer websites. If the adjuster depreciated an item too aggressively, show the expected useful life of that product category and argue for a lower depreciation rate. Many disputes resolve here, especially when you come with documentation instead of frustration.
If you still can’t agree on the dollar amount, most homeowners policies contain an appraisal clause either party can trigger with a written demand. The standard process: each side picks an independent appraiser within 20 days, the two appraisers choose a neutral umpire within 15 days, and any two of the three reaching agreement sets the final amount. That decision is binding. You pay for your appraiser, the insurer pays for theirs, and you split the umpire’s fee. Appraisal only resolves disputes over what the loss is worth. It can’t overturn a coverage denial.
A public adjuster is a licensed professional who works for you, not the insurance company. They conduct their own damage assessment, review your policy for coverage the company adjuster may have missed, and negotiate directly with the carrier. Public adjusters charge a percentage of the final settlement, typically 5 to 15 percent depending on complexity. Some states cap this fee, particularly for claims arising from declared disasters. For a large claim or a difficult insurer, a public adjuster can be worth the cost. For a straightforward claim where the offer is close to fair, the fee may eat more than it gains.
Every state has an insurance department that handles consumer complaints. If your insurer is ignoring deadlines, refusing to explain a denial, or engaging in settlement practices that feel unreasonable, you can file a formal complaint. The regulator reviews it and can compel the insurer to respond. Most states accept complaints online through the department’s consumer portal.
Should You File at All
Filing a burglary claim will almost certainly raise your homeowners premium at renewal. For a theft claim of around $5,000, expect roughly a 6 percent annual increase. Larger claims and properties in higher-crime areas tend to see steeper hikes. The surcharge typically stays on your record for five to seven years before your rate levels out.
This is worth factoring into your decision, especially for smaller losses. If a burglar stole $1,500 worth of belongings and your deductible is $1,000, you’d collect $500, but your premiums might increase by more than that over the following years. Filing makes sense for significant losses. For borderline amounts, run the math first.
One way to offset future premium increases after a claim is installing a professionally monitored security system. Carriers commonly offer discounts of 5 to 20 percent depending on the level of monitoring. A basic burglar alarm with door and window sensors might save 5 to 10 percent, while a full smart-home system with cameras, motion detection, smoke sensors, and cellular backup can earn up to 20 percent. Ask your carrier what equipment qualifies before you buy.